The quick version: Centella asiatica is a plant in the parsley family whose compounds (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid) support wound healing and calm inflammation in lab and clinical studies. In skincare it appears as “cica.” Evidence for soothing and barrier support in sensitive skin is encouraging but comes mostly from small, often industry-funded trials of multi-ingredient products. It is well tolerated by most people, though allergic reactions can occur.
Walk down the K-beauty aisle and you’ll see the word “cica” on creams, toners, masks and sunscreens, usually in a reassuring shade of green. Cica is shorthand for centella asiatica, a creeping plant used in traditional medicine for a very long time and now one of the defining ingredients of Korean skincare for sensitive skin.
Its reputation is gentle and calming. Here is what centella actually contains, what the research supports, where the evidence is thinner than the marketing, and how to use it well.
What’s inside
What centella asiatica is
Centella asiatica belongs to the Apiaceae family, the same family as parsley. It grows across Asia, Africa, Madagascar and other tropical regions and has been used in traditional medicine for thousands of years in multiple cultures (Bylka et al., 2013). It is also eaten: Cleveland Clinic notes that it is common in many cuisines (Cleveland Clinic).
The plant goes by many names, which is why labels can be confusing. Cleveland Clinic lists cica, tiger grass, Indian pennywort, gotu kola and brahmi. On an ingredient list you will usually see “centella asiatica extract” or “centella asiatica leaf extract,” or one of its purified compounds, such as madecassoside, listed separately.
In Korean skincare, centella has become a category of its own. Cica creams and serums typically sit in the moisturizer and treatment steps of the Korean skincare routine, aimed at skin that is red, reactive or recovering from irritation.
The active compounds
Centella’s skin effects are attributed mainly to four pentacyclic triterpenes: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Saponins make up roughly 1% to 8% of the plant, and commercial standardized extracts often contain about 40% asiaticoside and 60% asiatic and madecassic acids combined (Bylka et al., 2013).
Lab research describes several mechanisms. A 2013 review in Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii summarizes studies showing that these compounds stimulate fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, enhance type I collagen production through TGF-beta signaling, reduce inflammatory responses in hypertrophic scars and raise antioxidant enzyme levels (Bylka et al., 2013). That combination explains why centella sits at the intersection of wound care and cosmetics.
A caution on reading labels: “extract” can mean very different amounts of these compounds. A standardized extract and a generic plant extract are not equivalent, and most product labels don’t disclose triterpene content.
Worth remembering
- “Cica” is centella asiatica, also called gotu kola or tiger grass.
- Its main compounds are asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid.
- Wound-healing evidence is the strongest; cosmetic soothing studies are small and usually test multi-ingredient products.
- It’s generally well tolerated, but contact dermatitis has been reported. Patch test first.
What the evidence on centella asiatica shows
Wound healing and scars
Wound care is where centella has the longest research record. A 2024 review in Pharmaceutics identified six clinical studies of topical or related use, including burns, diabetic foot ulcers, scar prevention, recovery after laser resurfacing and acute wounds. In one, a 7% centella cream improved scars from the eighth week, compared with the twelfth week for placebo. In another, a standardized extract gel reduced redness after laser resurfacing faster than control. The authors flagged small samples, short durations and variable extract specifications, and called for more randomized trials (Witkowska et al., 2024).
Sensitive skin and barrier support
Most cica creams are not tested on wounds. They are aimed at everyday sensitivity, and the evidence there comes from studies of finished products that combine centella with other barrier ingredients.
In a 2025 observational study, 88 women with clinically diagnosed sensitive skin used a cream containing centella leaf extract, ceramide NP and panthenol for four weeks. Sensitivity scores fell 66% at two weeks and 76% at four, and skin hydration rose. Six mild adverse events, mostly comedones, were reported. The study had no control group, was not blinded and was funded by the product’s maker (Su et al., 2025).
A 2026 randomized controlled trial in 75 people with the redness-predominant type of rosacea compared a moisturizer with centella, ceramide NP and panthenol to a basic moisturizer. Everyone also took a prescription oral antibiotic. After 28 days, the centella group had greater reductions in measured redness and greater gains in hydration and quality-of-life scores, with fewer adverse events (2.5% vs. 10%). This study was also industry-funded and single-blind (Jiang et al., 2026).
Recovery after procedures
In a double-blind randomized trial of 60 people treated with non-ablative fractional laser, those who used a mask containing panthenol, madecassoside and bisabolol for 14 days had less redness and hyperpigmentation and better hydration than those using saline dressings. The authors noted that the mask’s occlusive effect alone may explain part of the hydration benefit (Gao et al., 2025).
Aging and stretch marks
Older studies summarized in the 2013 review include a double-blind trial in 100 pregnant women in which 17.5% of those using a centella-containing cream developed stretch marks versus 56% on placebo, and a six-month study in which 0.1% madecassoside combined with 5% vitamin C improved firmness, elasticity and hydration in women aged 45 to 60 (Bylka et al., 2013). In both, centella was one ingredient among several, so its individual contribution is hard to isolate.
Oral extracts are a separate question
Researchers are also studying centella taken by mouth. In a 2026 randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of 112 middle-aged Korean women, a daily oral centella extract for 12 weeks was associated with an 11.1% decrease in average wrinkle depth, along with improvements in hydration and water loss through the skin (Hur et al., 2026). That is interesting science, but it says nothing about creams, and supplements carry their own considerations, including the cautions Cleveland Clinic lists below. Talk to your primary care provider before taking any herbal supplement.
| Use | Type of evidence | How strong |
|---|---|---|
| Wound and burn healing | Several small clinical studies, plenty of lab data | Moderate |
| Calming sensitive skin | Small trials of combination products | Promising, limited |
| Rosacea redness (with medical treatment) | One randomized, industry-funded trial | Early |
| Post-laser recovery | Small randomized trials of combination products | Promising, clinic-specific |
| Fine lines and firmness | Combination-product studies | Limited |
| Acne | Mostly anti-inflammatory rationale | Not established |
Who benefits most
Centella makes the most sense if your skin is easily irritated, feels tight or red after cleansing, or is bouncing back from too much exfoliation. Cleveland Clinic describes it as moisturizing and anti-inflammatory and suggests leave-on formats, such as creams, serums and lotions, over rinse-off products so the ingredient stays on the skin longer (Cleveland Clinic).
It also fits well into routines built around stronger actives. If you use a retinoid or acids, a cica moisturizer is a reasonable buffer, though it won’t neutralize irritation from overuse. Pair it with a simple routine: a gentle cleanser, the cica product, and daily sunscreen. Our guide to Korean sunscreen covers formulas that suit sensitive skin.
Centella is not a substitute for medical treatment. Rosacea, eczema and acne are conditions a dermatologist can treat. The rosacea trial above showed benefit only as an add-on to prescribed medicine.
Side effects and safety
Centella is generally well tolerated. The 2024 wound-healing review found no allergic contact dermatitis reported among the clinical trials it examined (Witkowska et al., 2024). Still, the 2013 review notes that local allergic reactions, burning and contact dermatitis can occur with topical use (Bylka et al., 2013), and Cleveland Clinic describes these reactions as rare.
Cleveland Clinic’s guidance also lists pregnancy, breastfeeding, being under 18, and a history of liver disease or skin cancer as reasons to avoid centella. That guidance does not distinguish clearly between supplements and skincare. If any of these apply to you, ask your obstetric provider, pediatrician or dermatologist before using centella products, and treat oral supplements as a separate decision entirely.
Before adding any cica product, the American Academy of Dermatology suggests testing it on a quarter-sized area, such as the inside of the elbow, twice daily for seven to 10 days, and stopping if redness, itching or swelling appears (AAD). Remember that the rest of the formula, including fragrance and essential oils, can cause a reaction even when centella doesn’t.
Check with a dermatologist if
- Your face stays red, flushes easily or shows visible blood vessels; these can be signs of rosacea.
- A cica product causes burning, itching or a rash that doesn’t settle after you stop it.
- A wound, burn or scar isn’t healing as expected. Don’t self-treat with cosmetics.
- Sensitivity persists despite a simple, fragrance-free routine.
How to use cica products
- Choose leave-on formats. Creams, serums and toners give the ingredient time on the skin.
- Apply by texture. A cica toner or essence goes after cleansing; a cica cream takes the moisturizer step. Snail and centella layer comfortably together, as our snail mucin guide notes.
- Look for supporting ingredients. The better-studied products pair centella with ceramides and panthenol.
- Check where it falls on the label. Ingredients are listed in descending order, so a product called “cica” may contain very little centella. Our guide to reading Korean skincare labels explains how to tell.
- Keep sunscreen daily. Calming skin and protecting it from UV go together.
Frequently asked questions
What is centella asiatica good for in skincare?
It is mainly used to soothe sensitive or irritated skin and support the skin barrier. Its strongest evidence is in wound healing; cosmetic studies are smaller and usually test combination products.
Is cica the same as centella asiatica?
Yes. Cica is a common nickname for centella asiatica in skincare. A “cica” product may contain the plant extract, purified compounds such as madecassoside, or both.
Can I use centella every day?
Most people can, once a patch test shows no reaction. In the studies above, products were used once or twice daily for weeks.
Is centella asiatica safe during pregnancy?
Cleveland Clinic lists pregnancy and breastfeeding as reasons to avoid it. Because evidence on topical use during pregnancy is limited, ask your obstetric provider before using centella products or supplements.
Does centella help acne?
Its anti-inflammatory properties make it a reasonable soothing ingredient for acne-prone skin, but it isn’t an established acne treatment. For persistent acne, see a dermatologist.
Can I use centella with retinol or acids?
Generally, yes. Centella is often used alongside stronger actives because of its soothing reputation. Introduce one product at a time, and if your skin stings or peels, cut back on the retinol or acid rather than adding more cica.
Sources
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, et al. “Centella asiatica in cosmetology.” Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 2013. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- Cleveland Clinic. “Skin Care Benefits of Centella Asiatica.” Health Essentials, 2023. health.clevelandclinic.org
- Witkowska K, Paczkowska-Walendowska M, Garbiec E, et al. “Topical Application of Centella asiatica in Wound Healing: Recent Insights into Mechanisms and Clinical Efficacy.” Pharmaceutics, 2024. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- Su Z, Zheng Y, Yi J, Lai W, Ye C. “The Effectiveness and Safety of a Skin Care Product With Centella asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol in Subjects With Sensitive Skin.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- Jiang X, et al. “Effectiveness and Safety of a Moisturizer Containing Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol for Erythema and Skin Barrier in Erythematotelangiectatic Rosacea.” Skin Research and Technology, 2026. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- Gao M, et al. “Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- Hur N, Seo Y, Bae J, et al. “A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial Assessing the Effects of Oral Centella asiatica Extract on Skin Aging-Related Parameters in Middle-Aged Korean Women.” Nutrients, 2026. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- American Academy of Dermatology. “How to test skin care products.” AAD, 2021. aad.org
This guide is general information, not medical advice. If a product irritates your skin, stop using it and check with a dermatologist.