The short answer: Double cleansing means washing your face first with an oil-based cleanser, then with a gentle water-based one. It’s most useful at night if you wear water-resistant sunscreen or long-wear makeup, or have oily skin. If you don’t, one thorough, gentle cleanse is usually enough, and overwashing can dry out and irritate skin.
Double cleansing is the first step of the classic Korean routine and probably its most practical export. The logic is simple chemistry: oil dissolves oil. Sunscreen, long-wear makeup and sebum are all oily, so an oil-based cleanser loosens them before a second, water-based cleanser rinses everything away.
The method has a real evidence base for one job in particular, and a real downside when people use it every day without needing to. Here is who benefits, how to do it right and when to skip it.
In this article
What double cleansing is
Double cleansing is washing your face twice in a row: first with an oil-based cleanser, then with a water-based cleanser (Cleveland Clinic). The first step can be a cleansing oil, a balm that melts into an oil, or another oil-based formula. The second is your usual gentle face wash, whether that’s a gel, cream or low-foam cleanser.
In Korean skincare, the pair opens the evening routine, before toner, essence and moisturizer. You can see where it fits in our step-by-step guide to the Korean skincare routine.
Does double cleansing work?
For removing sunscreen, there is good small-scale evidence. In a 2020 study, researchers applied sunscreen to 20 volunteers and measured how much remained after rinsing with water, using a foaming cleanser or using a cleansing oil. With regular (non-waterproof) sunscreen, the cleanser and the oil performed similarly, leaving about 15.6% and 13.4% behind. With waterproof sunscreen, the difference was large: 36.8% remained after the cleanser versus 5.8% after the cleansing oil. Water alone left more than half. Eight people in the cleanser group reported dry skin, compared with one in the oil group (Chen et al., 2020).
That study tested a single oil step, not a full double cleanse. But it supports the logic of the first step: if your sunscreen or makeup is designed to resist water, an oil cleanser removes it far more completely than a foaming wash alone. The second cleanse then removes oil residue and water-soluble grime such as sweat.
Cleveland Clinic adds that the oil step can help people with oily skin remove excess sebum, which may help the water-based cleanser work better (Cleveland Clinic).
Key takeaways
- Double cleansing pairs an oil-based cleanser with a gentle water-based one.
- A cleansing oil removed waterproof sunscreen far better than a foaming cleanser in a 2020 study.
- It’s most useful at night for people who wear water-resistant sunscreen or long-wear makeup.
- Overwashing can dry skin and weaken the skin barrier, so skip it when you don’t need it.
Who needs double cleansing and who doesn’t
Cleveland Clinic’s dermatologists are clear that double cleansing is usually not necessary for everyone, and that they worry more about people overwashing than about people skipping a second cleanse (Cleveland Clinic). In a separate roundup of social media skincare trends, Cleveland Clinic put double cleansing on its “skip” list because it can cause dryness and irritation (Cleveland Clinic). The answer depends on what’s on your face by evening.
| Your situation | Double cleanse? |
|---|---|
| Water-resistant sunscreen or long-wear makeup | Yes, at night |
| Oily skin with a lot of sebum by evening | Often helpful at night |
| Light, non-water-resistant sunscreen only | Optional; one thorough cleanse usually works |
| No makeup or sunscreen that day | No |
| Dry or sensitive skin | Only when needed, with very gentle products |
| Acne-prone skin | Possible, but never the oil step alone; choose non-comedogenic products |
| Morning cleanse | No; a single gentle cleanse or rinse is enough |
On acne: Cleveland Clinic warns that people with acne-prone skin shouldn’t rely on oil-based cleansers alone, because they can contribute to breakouts. The second, water-based step matters. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends that people with acne wash with a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser up to twice a day and after sweating, using fingertips rather than scrubbing tools, and choose products that won’t clog pores (AAD).
How to double cleanse
Cleveland Clinic outlines the method in four steps. Here they are, with practical detail.
- Start with dry hands and a dry face. Oil cleansers work best before water dilutes them. Dispense a pump or two of oil, or a small scoop of balm, into your palm.
- Massage gently. Work the oil gently over your face, including the hairline, sides of the nose and jaw, to break down makeup, sebum and sunscreen. Use light pressure around the eyes.
- Emulsify and rinse. Add a splash of lukewarm water. Many oil cleansers turn milky as they emulsify. Rinse thoroughly with your hands or a soft washcloth, keeping the water from getting too hot.
- Follow with a water-based cleanser. While skin is still damp, wash with a gentle cleanser, rinse well and pat dry with a soft towel.
Then move straight on to the rest of your evening routine. Applying moisturizer while skin is still slightly damp helps, as the AAD notes in its advice for dry skin (AAD).
Choosing the first-step product is its own topic. Mineral oil, plant oils and balms behave differently, and some plant oils are kinder to the skin barrier than others. Our guide to choosing an oil cleanser for double cleansing walks through the options.
Mistakes that undo the benefit
Using a harsh second cleanser
The second cleanser should be mild. A 2022 review of soaps and synthetic detergents explains that harsh cleansers can denature skin proteins and strip the cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides that make up the skin’s lipid barrier. Skin surface pH is naturally acidic, around 4 to 6, while traditional soaps are alkaline, at pH 8.5 to 11; milder synthetic cleansers sit closer to the skin’s own pH (Mijaljica, Spada and Harrison, 2022). Pairing a good oil cleanser with a stripping foam defeats the purpose.
Using hot water
Water temperature matters more than people think. In a 2026 randomized study of 52 adults using a cleansing balm for 10 days, cleansing with warm water increased transepidermal water loss, a marker of barrier stress, while cool water did not. Makeup removal was equally good with both, and cool water used 27% less water (Long et al., 2026). Lukewarm to cool is the sweet spot.
Double cleansing in the morning
Overnight, there’s no sunscreen or makeup to remove. The AAD recommends washing your face when you wake up, before bed and after sweating (AAD), but a single gentle wash covers the morning.
Scrubbing for too long
Massage is for loosening product, not exfoliating. Rough rubbing with washcloths or brushes adds friction your skin doesn’t need. Overwashing, as one Cleveland Clinic dermatologist puts it, can lead to dryness, irritation and breakdown of the skin barrier, which in turn can trigger breakouts and eczema.
Skipping the patch test
Adding a cleanser means adding a new set of ingredients, often including fragrance or essential oils. Even rinse-off products can irritate reactive skin. The AAD suggests testing new products on a small area for seven to 10 days before using them on your face; for cleansers, follow the product’s directions for how long it stays on before rinsing (AAD).
Alternatives to double cleansing
If two cleansers feel like too much, Cleveland Clinic suggests micellar water as a first step to remove makeup before a water-based cleanser (Cleveland Clinic). Another option is a single cleansing oil or balm designed to rinse clean, used on its own on light days. And if you only wore a light, non-water-resistant sunscreen, one thorough cleanse with a gentle face wash is usually enough, consistent with the 2020 sunscreen-removal study.
Your sunscreen choice affects this too. Many Korean sunscreens are light fluids that come off easily, while sport and water-resistant formulas need the oil step.
Frequently asked questions
Is double cleansing bad for your skin?
Not when it’s done gently and only when needed. Problems come from overwashing, harsh second cleansers and hot water, which can dry and irritate skin.
Should I double cleanse every night?
Only on nights when you wore water-resistant sunscreen, long-wear makeup or produced a lot of oil. On other nights, one gentle cleanse is fine.
Is double cleansing good for oily skin?
Often, yes. Cleveland Clinic notes the oil step can remove excess sebum. Follow it with a gentle water-based cleanser and a lightweight moisturizer.
Can I use micellar water instead of an oil cleanser?
Yes. Cleveland Clinic suggests micellar water before a water-based cleanser as an alternative. For heavy waterproof products, an oil cleanser tends to be more thorough.
Can I double cleanse with acne?
Yes, if you always follow the oil step with a water-based cleanser and choose products that won’t clog pores. If acne persists, see a board-certified dermatologist.
Do I need to double cleanse after mineral sunscreen?
It depends on the formula, not the filter type. If your mineral sunscreen is water resistant, or you still see a white film after one wash, use an oil cleanser first. A light, non-water-resistant formula usually comes off with one gentle cleanse.
Sources
- Cleveland Clinic. “Double Cleansing Method Explained: Should You Try It?” Health Essentials, 2022. source
- Chen W, He M, Xie L, Li L. “The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen: Water, cleanser or cleansing oil?” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020. source
- Cleveland Clinic. “Should You Try These TikTok Skin Care Trends?” Health Essentials, 2023. source
- American Academy of Dermatology. “Acne: Tips for managing.” AAD, 2022. source
- American Academy of Dermatology. “Dermatologists’ top tips for relieving dry skin.” AAD, 2026. source
- Mijaljica D, Spada F, Harrison IP. “Skin Cleansing without or with Compromise: Soaps and Syndets.” Molecules, 2022. source
- Long S, Fenn K, Harvey K, Ward P, O’Brien C. “Cool versus warm water for facial cleansing: A randomized controlled clinical study of skin barrier, skin physiology, cleansing efficacy and water consumption.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2026. source
- American Academy of Dermatology. “How to test skin care products.” AAD, 2021. source
- American Academy of Dermatology. “Skin care tips dermatologists use.” AAD, 2024. source
This article is for general information and isn’t a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.